Staring at Birds - Socialization

I've been lucky over the years.  Every employer I've ever had has been okay with me bringing babies to work for handfeeding.  I've always had office jobs.  Co-workers and clients get a kick out of seeing the babies being fed and developing.  The babies get super socialized through the daily car rides and meeting all the new people.  

So, take your bird out and about with you when you can!  Don't forget to clip, harness and have a carrier when you do.

Staring at Birds - Talking

Pet Peeve - Someone gets a bird and then complains it doesn't talk.
DON'T GET A BIRD JUST BECAUSE YOU WANT A PET THAT TALKS!!  GET A FRIEND!!  GET A LIFE!!
Talking is a BONUS!!  Even if it's a species known for excellent talking skills such as an African Grey, there's NO guarantee it will ever learn to talk in human!  I had a friend with an African Grey.  In 40+ years it NEVER spoke a single word.
You don't REALLY "love birds", if you want to get rid of it simply because it doesn't speak.

Staring at Birds - TOYS!!

My friend Margaret's new bird toy store offering FREE SHIPPING in March:
http://www.luckybirdtoyscompany.com/

Join Parrot Paradise Forum to receive an additional 10% in Margaret's bird store:
http://www.parrotparadiseforum.com/

Staring at Birds - Cockatiels

Definitive proof that cockatiels WILL eat fresh foods:

Eric's little messy face after his breakfast of carrots, broccoli, apple, celery, cauliflower, and sprouts.

Remember - Birds are suspicious little creatures.  Repetition is they key to getting them onto a healthy, assorted diet.  After seeing the food item enough times they WILL try it. . . after they figure out you're not trying to poison them.

Bird Thought - Handfeeding Revisited

So, I just got another handfed baby bird yesterday that's not really all that tame.  The baby's only four months old and very skitterish, handshy and bites.

The person I got it from handfed it, let it out of the cage every couple of days, but otherwise didn't play with it or socialize it.  She couldn't figure out why it's not tame because she handfed it.

To all of you who either are breeding or handfeeding babies - Please remember IT TAKES MORE THAN JUST HANDFEEDING TO HAVE A GOOD PET PARROT!!!

Please read:  Handfed does NOT = Tame and The "S" Word

Bird Tip - More Independence

Yeah - I'm big on the a lot of out-of-cage time to avoid/eliminate behavior problems. Unfortunately, a lot of people take that to mean the bird needs to be glued to your body which makes problems worse.

Ducky's cage is pretty much open 24/7 with a play stand in front. We do regularly lock him in and do stuff around him when his door's closed so he can practice not screaming while locked up and watching us go about our business. I do this with babies I raise too. They learn that just because I'm in the room they don't necessarily get out and they don't necessarily get attention at the moment. I've been on the phone with people wanting a conure and they're not convinced I have any because I don't have any noise in the background.

So, practice Independence Sessions by locking your bird in its cage several times a week while you go about your business.  In order for this to be successful, your bird's needs must be met first - Exercise or have your bird out for awhile before doing any Independence Sessions.  Put super duper goodies in the cage so cage time and Independence Sessions are things they look forward to.
Also practice this:  Teach Independence

Bird Tip - Do NOT Fall for the Jedi Mind Tricks!

Have you seen "Finding Nemo" - The seagulls going Mine! Mine! Mine! tell the story how birds think.
Your time is Mine.
Your food is Mine.
Your attention is Mine.
Your affection is Mine.
Your house is Mine to explore and destroy.
Your money is Mine and you will spend it all on more and better toys for ME.
Your undying gratitude is Mine for allowing you to be Mine.
You have to set a time when your baby can come out and play, and a time when it cannot.
If you do not set this time line and keep to it the sweet wittel birdy will use every trick it can to get you to capitulate and surrender your body and soul to the exclusive 365/24/7 slave service. And no, you do not get the 366 day on Leap Year off either.
My thanks to Les from the Conure Community Chat for the foregoing explanation of how a bird thinks: Conure Community

So, you see, birds are self-centered, self-absorbed little creatures that will use Jedi Mind Tricks on you to get what's rightly theirs.  And the Force is strong in them.  Remember to resist their Jedi Mind Tricks by teaching Independence, Socializing, teaching him biting is not appropriate, keeping him off your shoulder unless invited, not stimulating him sexually, and teaching him his cage is his room.

Bird Tip - Join Me!

Learn more about birds.  Join me in taking this course:

Fundamentals of Aviculture   Level II, Intermediate Aviculture

Fundamentals of Aviculture is written for: pet bird owners, bird breeders, veterinarians and their staff, zoo employees, bird-related commercial establishments and everyone associated with birds. The course provides a foundation for the emerging science of aviculture. The Fundamentals of Aviculture, Level 1, must be completed before enrollment in Level 2. The Level 2 course, Intermediate Aviculture, is presented in 15 chapters covering conservation, avian genetics, color mutations, nesting, courtship, incubation, hand-rearing, basic microbiology, disease, emergency care, enrichment and much more.

Visit the Fundamentals of Aviculture for more information.

Status of the Organization: The American Federation of Aviculture, Inc., is a 501(c)(3) Not-For-Profit Corporation, established in 1974. Supporters: Development of Fundamentals of Aviculture is made possible by a grant from Pet Care Trust, and by funding and other support from the Schubot Exotic Bird Health Center, and the College of Veterinary Medicine at Texas A&M University.

Enroll today to take Intermediate Aviculture at the introductory rate of $75.

©2011 American Federation of Aviculture, Inc.  All rights reserved.

Bird Tip - Think Long Term

So, you're here.  If you don't already have a bird, you're researching possibilities.  THINK LONG TERM.  Like your life for at least the next 25 years.

When I bought my house in 2006, height of the mortgage loan shenanigans, I went in to the financing office with specifics - X amount for X number of years with X amount for the monthly payment.  The craziest I was willing to get was an adjustable rate mortgage.  The loan office tried to talk me into a loan that was for an amount greater than what I asked for.  I told him I couldn't afford the payments.  He told me he'd put me into a negative amortization loan.  I told him no way, that's a foolish loan.  I stuck to my guns and didn't get greedy.  I got laid off in 2009.  I still have my house because I thought LONG TERM.

What's the similarity to getting a bird?  Well, for those of you in your teens and early adulthood think about what you're going to do with that bird when you go to college, date, get a job, move, get married, rent in an apartment, have children, move, change jobs, etc.  Do you want to spontaneously spend the night at your boyfriend or girlfriend's house?  Ain't happenin'.  Spontaneous hedonistic weekends in Vegas?  Ain't happenin'. Oh - and oversees adventures other than short vacations are straight out.  You have a LONG TERM commitment to this animal that probably can't go with you.

Keep in mind this LONG TERM commitment while you're raising this bird, too.  I can tell you from experience that your significant other is not going to be thrilled with your darling FID attacking them.  And if your bird attacks the human baby. . . FUGETABOUTIT.  Are you going to blame the other parent when he/she kills your bird?  Are you really going to keep that bird and go to divorce court?  I don't think the judge is going to look favorably upon you that you let your damn bird attack your child.

Parents - Does your kid want a bird?  I do not object to kids having pet birds.  I think it could potentially lead to a lifelong love and respect for birds.  However, are you, the parent, willing to keep and care for that bird when your child flies the coop and doesn't want Paulie fly with them?  Last week I met a guy who was telling me he has a cockatiel.  He got it for his daughter when she was 12 years old.  He has it now as the daughter left it home when she grew up and went about her business - the bird's 20 years old, the daughter's 32.  He asked me when the bird's going to die.  I told him it might live to be 30.  He was not happy that he might have to be taking care of that bird for another 10 years.

For those of you getting long in the tooth like me, think about what you're going to do with this bird when it outlives you.  What about when you retire, do you want to travel? 

It's doable!  I did it!  But THINK about it first!
Bird Tip - Integrate him into YOUR Lifestyle

Also, choose well my Padawan!
Bird Tip: Handfed does NOT = tame and handleable

Reported Longevity of some birds:
Zebra Finch 17 years
Canary 20 years
Budgerigar 18 years
Agapornis sp. (lovebirds) 12 years
Neophema 10 years
Cockatiel 32 years
Rainbow Lorikeet 15 years
Rosella 15 years
Eclectus Parrot 20 years
Sulphur-crested Cockatoo 40 years
African Grey Parrot 50 years
Pionus parrot 15 years
Amazon parrot 80 years
Macaw 50 years
Conure 25 years

Bird Tip - The "S" Word!

SOCIALIZE, SOCIALIZE, SOCIALIZE!

Ducky and the latest batch of babies performing community service.

My daughter and I volunteer with a local cat shelter, Friends of Cats - FOC.

We take Ducky and any babies to events to socialize.

This picture was taken at a Farmer's Market.

Hopefully, you have gotten your bird from a source that's already socialized your new bird very well.  Regardless, you must socialize the bird or continue to give the bird new experiences.  A little fear is not a bad thing.  Don't be over protective; but keep in mind - don't terrify the bird.

I know you think you're doing what's best for your bird by removing him from the scary experience - "Oh, it scares Polly! Poor Polly! I don't want Polly to be scared!"

In the bird's mind it's, "Oh! That's scary! Oh! My owner says we need to hurry away from the scary thing; therefore, this scary thing must be dangerous!"

Lesson learned is next time the scary thing is encountered, the bird will react with more fear because you've taught it that the thing was dangerous.

On the other hand, if we do not remove them from the scary thing:
Human - "Oh, it scares Polly! Well, it's just a stuffed animal that's not harmful to Polly. No reason to remove Polly away from the toy." Human to bird - "It's ok Polly, it's just a toy." And we help the bird understand it's not a dangerous thing, and we expose the bird until it relaxes.
Bird - "Oh! That's scary! Hmm. . . But my owner doesn't seem scared. Hmm . . . my owner's being very calm about all of this. Hmm . . . my owner not afraid of this thing. Hmm. . . I think I'll touch it with my beak and see for myself. Oh! Hey! It's kinda squishy. I guess it's nothing to be afraid of!"

Lesson learned is next time I see this thing it's not scary and might be in need of further exploration.

I'm a strong believer that the animal takes cues from us as to how it should react to its environment and new things. I notice in both my horses and my birds, the more I help them overcome a scary experience, the more trusting the animal is of me. When I first got my grey arab, he really had a hard time listening to me - he was a very reactionary horse. I discovered that when I helped him overcome something scary, his behavior immediately changed afterwards and he was much more compliant when being ridden.

For birds, the amount of fear I like to see is when the bird stands really tall slightly leaning away from the object, looks concerned, may be moving its head around to see where it can flee to, wings may be flicking like it wants to get away; but there is no actual movement to get away from the object. Any actual movement away from the scary object is too scary.

It's about nuance and a "feel" for the animal. SOCIALIZE, BUT DON'T TERRIFY YOUR BIRD. 

Bird Tip - Sock Sweater for Feather Pickers

I used to have a seasonal feather picking cockatoo.  We didn't want the feather picking to become a permanent habit. I created a sock sweater for her.  What I did was take my hubby's old tube socks, wash well w/ bleach, cut sock the length of the 'toos neck to right above the vent, snip hole at the toe where her head goes, snip two slits on each side where her wings go. There's enough play in it to wrestle her head and wings into it. Originally I also cut leg slits into it, but it turned out unnecessary to put her legs through.

I'd replace the sweater as needed according to tattering and/or her chewing. If I were really feeling like a nut, I'd sew beads and little bits of ribbon onto it so she could chew and play with the decorations. Here's how:

 

Sock side view

 

Sock bottom view

 

The green marker indicates where the cuts go

 

After cuts are made

 

What it looks like after stuffing a bird into it.

Put it over the head first, then wings.  See below on a caution.

 

**IMPORTANT** When putting it on the bird, don't try to get the end of the wing into the wing holes first.  Grab the "elbow" (joint closest to the head) and pull the elbow through - the rest of the wing will follow.

It is normal for the parrot to flail around like it's being eaten by a boa constrictor and it's dying.  It's also normal for some parrots to chew the sweater off within a few minutes.  You need to put the sweater on when you can supervise all day long until the bird gets used to it.  It may take several days for the bird to get used to it and you may need to take the sweater off at night or when you cannot supervise so the bird doesn't strangle itself.   Do not leave the sweater on the bird unsupervised until you are sure the bird's used to it and doesn't seem like it's even wearing a sweater.

plucking picking mutilating feather mutilation self mutilation seasonal hormones

Bird Tip - The Bird Bit Me! Or Did It?

Just because a bird laid its beak on you doesn't mean it bit you.  My family hates it when I say, "You're not bleeding, the bird didn't bite you."  But that's usually true.

If you understand how a bird uses its beak, respect what the bird's trying to tell you, and apply fair discipline, you will rarely be truly bitten.

Understand how a bird uses its beak:

• Getting Around - This is not a bite. Birds commonly grab a branch in their beak to test it for strength before stepping on it. They also use their beak to steady themselves as they climb from branch to branch. This can appear to be an attempt to bite and your instinctive reaction is to pull away.  DON’T PULL AWAY.  Branches don't pull away.  If you pull away, your bird will start biting you.  Sometimes the bird loses its balance and will grab you with its beak.  Sometimes this grabbing can be very hard, hurts a lot and you may even bleed.  If your bird hurts you because it grabbed you due to losing its balance you CANNOT discipline the bird.  He didn't mean it. 
• Beaking - The bird gently gnaws and tongues you fingers, hands and arms. This is a form of social interaction on the part of the bird and is normal. However, it can easily get out of control to where the bird starts feeling stabby and starts to really hurt you or try to take your fingernails off.  Discipline the bird if the pressure is too hard, gently wobble your hand and firmly tell your bird “no”.  The bird will learn what amount of pressure is acceptable.  ** Do not wobble so hard that the bird falls.  The correct amount of wobble is just enough to get the bird to stop biting, but not so hard that the bird is afraid.  Just enough to get its attention.
• Pinching - A good pinch administered with the tip of the beak. A parrot most often does this to get your attention,  warn you of approaching danger, or to let you know you’re doing something that’s annoying. Not serious, but definitely irritating and painful.  Discipline your bird with the gentle hand wobble and firmly tell him “no” to teach him that hurt you.  BUT YOU SHOULD ALSO TAKE NOTE OF WHAT YOU DID TO DESERVE THE PINCH AND MODIFY YOUR BEHAVIOR IN THE FUTURE.  This shows your bird you acknowledge the message he’s sending and you respect it.  ** Again ** Do not wobble so hard that the bird falls.  The correct amount of wobble is just enough to get the bird to stop biting, but not so hard that the bird is afraid.  Just enough to get its attention.
• Biting - You'll know it when you get one.  Generally it’s fast and striking like a snake.  Usually the bird’s displaying and warning you in some way like puffing up (aggressive), snaking its neck from side to side (aggressive), eyes are flashing or pinning (aggressive), or backing up with its beak open (fearful).  If you are not bleeding or missing chunks of flesh, it’s not a bite.  If you are observant of the prior three ways that a bird uses its beak and you behave appropriately - not pulling away when the bird’s getting around on you, disciplining hard beaking and pinching, respecting the bird’s feelings and messages when it pinches you - you will rarely get truly bitten by a tame bird.  

**DO NOT, NO MATTER HOW HARD IT IS, SCREAM, SAY "OUCH", OR OTHERWISE EXCLAIM WHEN A BIRD'S BEAK HURTS YOU.  If you do, you run the risk of turning yourself into an entertaining squeaky toy and the bird will bite you just to get you to yell. 

This biting info is not applicable to a bird that is not already tame and friendly.  I don't like taming birds and I'm no good at it, so I don't provide tips on avoiding bites when taming a bird.

Bird Tip - Shoulders are a Privilege

Q:  How did the pirate lose his eye?
A:  Polly poked it out!

Seriously, think about it - That beak cracks nuts like nothing.  Have you taken a good look at that hook on the end?  I've suffered temporary nerve damage in my hand from an eclectus bite.

On your shoulder a bird can easily take your earlobe off, scar your face, blind you, take chunks of nose or lip.  It doesn't even have to be intentional.  If the bird loses its balance, it may use its beak like a climbers pick and thwack it deep into your cheek or neck.  I've had this actually happen - it hurt . . . A LOT. . . I bled. . . A LOT. . .  I have the scar.

Shoulders also aren't very safe for your bird.  They can fall and break their leg, wing, keel bone.  A really bad fall onto the pavement can cause internal bleeding and death.  A clipped bird can fall like a brick.

I personally don't put any parrots on my shoulder unless it's a quiet moment like watching TV.  And the bird has to be well behaved and predictable.  Some birds are not not well behaved on the shoulder and will bite faces, necks and hands when you try to get them off.

Teach your bird that the shoulder is a privilege and not a right:

• 1st scurry to shoulder 1st discipline is blocking with hand, if bird reaches shoulder retrieving off shoulder and holding on hand.
• 2nd scurry 2nd discipline is blocking and if bird reaches shoulder then retrieving off shoulder and putting bird down somewhere it doesn't want to be like the floor, wait a minute and pick up the bird and see if it will stay off shoulder. LOTS OF PRAISE, SCRITCHES AND REWARDS FOR ANY AMOUNT OF TIME THE BIRD STAYS ON YOUR HAND.
• 3rd scurry 3rd discipline is blocking and if bird reaches shoulder then retrieve off shoulder and put in cage. 

You can repeat discipline 2 numerous times if the bird's making small improvements and you may not need to go to discipline 3.  

If it gets to the 3rd discipline, end interaction time for a significant amount of time like 1/2 hour or more, leave the room, etc.  The bird learns we're done if he can't behave.

Block before each escalation.  That's a warning to the bird that there's a consequence coming up and he gets a chance to decide to stay on the hand and avoid the consequence. 

If your bird allows it, you might also pin the toes along with the blocking when teaching it that you want it to stay on the hand.

Bird Tip - **WARNING! X-RATED**

Don't sexually stimulate or encourage your bird to behave sexually!!!
It can cause screaming, biting, territoriality, aggression, and in the females egg binding - PROBLEMS!

Female Sexual Behaviors:

• Don't pet her in sexy ways - one long stroke from the top of her head to the end of her tail.  It feels like you're trying to mate with her.  She may start crouching for you to make it easier for you to "do it".
• Don't let her get territorial or obsessed over dark little cubbie type areas like kleenex boxes, happy huts.  Just don't give them any nesty type things in their cages.  
• Don't let her back up onto you, trying to rub her vent on you.

Just because they feel hormonal, they don't HAVE to lay eggs.  I have had many female pet parrots - African Grey (6 years), jenday conure (12 years), goffin cockatoo (16+ years) - and they didn't lay eggs because I discouraged hormonal and nesty behaviors.

They're not like mammals - we can't stop our bodies having a menses. Their bodies don't have to produce eggs if the conditions aren't right.  Egg production can kill your bird!  Google "egg binding" to learn about it.  

Male Sexual Behaviors:

• Rubbing his vent area on you in a back and forth motion.  I've heard they can complete the act and leave you a little puddle.  EWWWWW!!  You wouldn't let your dog hump your leg would you?

Male and Female Sexual Behaviors:

• Regurgitating for you or trying to feed you.  You might think it's sweet or cute.  Think VOMIT!
• Possessiveness of one person.  It's not cute that your bird sits on your shoulder lunging at other people. It's territoriality and "claiming" you.  If the bird can't bite the other person, he/she might take a bite out of your face.  Stop the behavior immediately!  Take the bird off your shoulder and firmly, not loudly, tell your bird "no"!

To Discourage Sexual Behaviors:

• Stop any sexy petting  (head and neck scritches only)
• Immediately stop any sexy behavior from the bird
• Redirect any sexy behavior from the bird (he/she tries to crouch, rub, regurgitate you need to change whatever it is you two are doing that causes these behaviors)
• Move the cage to another location in the house
• Move the toys and stuff in the cage around
• Decrease the number of lighting hours
• Remove any boxes, happy huts, or other dark cozy areas

**Sun/Jenday Conures - They really enjoy sleeping in happy huts, tents, cubby holes.  I don't  like these things because they're sexually stimulating.  They get aggressive, bitey, territorial.  For conures what I've always done is hang a towel in an upper corner and they go behind it to sleep.

I've never had any territoriality or aggression with the towel set up. I discovered this method by accident. My first jenday would put herself to bed behind the curtain that was near her cage, so I hung a towel in a corner for her in her cage. She'd wrap herself up in it like a burrito.

Just make sure the towel doesn't have loose weaving so no bathroom type towels. Cloth napkins with the tight weave work. 

 

An old shirt works, too.

Ducky was already asleep behind it, 

but came out to yell at me for disturbing his beauty sleep.

Bird Tip - Teach Independence to Reduce Screaming

With a sweet new bird, your inclination is to cuddle it and have it stuck to your body when it's not in its cage.  Well DON'T!

Paulie doesn't need to be held or on someone constantly.  It's good for him to spend some time on top of a cage, or on a play stand by himself for a while each day.  Teaches independence and so he won't learn to scream for attention.  Do this "independence time" after you  have spent some time cuddling and playing with him.  Helps a lot to have special goodies on the cage/play stand - table foods, water, wad of paper to chew up, new toy, etc.

If he won't stay on the cage/play stand or won't stop screeching for you (give him at least 5-10 minutes to stop screeching or jumping off, keep putting him back on the cage/stand) quietly pick him up and lock him in his cage until he calms down.  Leave the room if you have to.  You can play with him again after he's calmed down and quiet for 15 minutes or so.  He'll hear you walking around and whatever and he'll scream.  Don't go to him, don't let him out, don't "poor baby" him through the bars.  Just ignore him.

You also need to be realistic as to how often a bird vocalizes.  Birds are not quiet animals (Then again, humans aren't either.  When was the last time you went 15 minutes without opening your trap?) .

Understand when it's normal for them to be vocalizing:
- Dusk: 15-20 minutes
- Dawn: 15-20 minutes.  15-20 minutes seems absolute FOREVER if you can't stand the noise.  Find some noise that really grates on your nerves and see if you can stand it before you get yourself a bird.
- When you leave the house.  He should settle down w/in 10-15 minutes after you leave.  Reduce screaming in this instance by giving the bird super special items right before you step out the door - favorite toy, favorite food, etc.  Save certain special items for this use.  Your bird will look forward to your departure in anticipation of his bonus goodies. 
- Even when you leave the room it's not odd for him to beep once or twice - more persistent than that and you need to put him in his cage and/or leave the room until he quiets down.

Understand "contact calls":
- When you return home and he's screaming, he's contact calling you.  When you come home, go briefly say "hi" to the bird, let him out on top of his cage, go do something like bathroom/change clothes whatever until he's quiet for a few minutes; then pick him up and play with him.

Read more about contact calls:  Contact Calls

Bird Thought - My bird won't eat a variety of foods! Really?

Ok, so you say you give your bird all sorts of good table foods and your bird just won't eat anything other than bird seed.  Really?  This is actually something I didn't think about until I was speaking with someone yesterday.  The lady told me the same thing - Can't get the lovebird to eat anything other than bird seed.  Then she described what the lovebird does with the apples, oranges, broccoli, other foods she gives the bird.  She said the bird just destroys all the food and throws it on the ground.

**BING, BING, BING** A dim light bulb flickered in my little pea brain.  Her bird most likely is eating all those good foods; she's just not familiar with how a bird eats.

Think about it.  Give your dog a treat - woof, it's gone, not even a crumb left.  Give your bunny a piece of carrot - nom, nom, nom carrot all gone.  Now go watch some birds in an orchard.  They destroy and waste a ton of fruit all over the ground while they're feeding.

When feeding your bird, think about it this way - If you had a personal fridge and pantry supplier that replenished you every single day with unlimited pizza, a bag of chip, soda, beer, apples, bananas, broccoli, quinoa, salad; what would you eat?  I love pizza.  I'd eat the pizza, chips and soda.  I might take a bite of apple.  I'd probably never get around to the quinoa-ever.  Next day I get the same items, I'll probably do the same thing.

Now, if my personal food shopper started giving me daily a slice of pizza, maybe chips maybe not, fruit smoothies, salad and quinoa; I'd still be hungry after my pizza slice.  I'd have the fruit smoothie and eat the salad and quinoa even though those might not be my favorite things.  Next day I get a pizza slice, banana, whole grain pasta salad, and water.    I'd probably eat everything again.

Hopefully you understand my analogy - Don't starve your bird, but don't keep that seed bowl filled 24/7!  Portion any seed you feed and keep giving them the variety they need.  If they're destroying the good foods and making a mess, that's a good thing.  The true "seed junkies" I've seen don't even touch the other food items.

Read also: Thoughts on Diet and Diet

Bird Thought - Hazards to Your Birds

Ok, so you see pictures here of my birds with dogs, cats, other animals, outside without restraints, etc.  Are these all potential hazards?  YES!  Am I going to preach to you about them?  NO!  Why?  Because there's plenty of information out there and YOU need to research and make an educated decision for yourself.

I have had my own unfortunate accidents through the years and have learned from them.  The unfortunate and sad reality is that many of you will have accidents that also cause the lives of your beloved pets.  Even with forethought and caution, accidents will happen.

Many years ago I knew someone who got a large rescue dog from the pound.  They also had birds.  They kept the birds in a separate locked room.  One day while they were out of the house, the dog broke down the door and killed every single bird.

Do I let my birds wander freely with the dogs and cats?  No!  None of my animals are allowed to interact freely with each other, except for same species interaction (dog to dog, goat to goat, horse to horse, etc.). I'm lucky, my current two cats have lived with birds the last five years and have never harmed or made to harm any birds.  Have I had cats in the past that caused harm?  Yes!  I used to have a cat that also lived well with my birds until I got button quail.  Maybe it's how button quail move, I don't know.  But she broke into their cage and ate them.  

Do my birds go outside in carriers?  Yes!  I observe my environmental conditions before having them out without restraint.  Are they clipped?  Yes!  Do I check wings every single time before taking any birds outside?  Yes!  Have I lost birds due to a gust of wind?  Yes!  In my early days of bird keeping there were no harnesses or flight suits or even the thought of putting birds into carriers.  I knew not to bring my birds outside on gusty days.  I still lost a cockatiel by underestimating how streamline they are and how little wind it takes to carry them away.

Those are just a few hazards.  You need to observe your surroundings, learn, and decide for yourself!

Bird Tip-Integrate Him Into YOUR Lifestyle

Ok, so I've read the articles about minimum cage size, enrichment, feeding, training, etc.  Google it - I'm not going into detail here.  I don't know about you, but after 20+ years living with parrots, I still can't get around to doing everything that's recommended out there.  Or maybe you have family members who aren't as thrilled as you are at decorating every room in the house to look like the inside of a bird cage.

Especially to those of you out there with your first bird or just a couple of birds - Don't kill yourself!  The more you can integrate bird care and feeding to fit your lifestyle, the more likely you'll actually KEEP your bird.  We've all seen those rehoming ads - "No time for my bird Buddy".   No time, or it's just more hassle than it's worth?

- Trash cans can serve at temporary perches in rooms you don't/can't put a play stand.  When I do dishes there's usually a bird sitting on the trashcan next to me.  For those of you thinking "How disgusting! How unsanitary!"  I have to ask you - what the heck are you putting in your trashcan?  Don't you empty it regularly?  And don't you ever wash your trashcan?

- Improve your eating habits so you can share food with your bird.  Forget that bag of Flubber Thigh Potato Chips and get those whole wheat crackers.  Try quinoa instead of mashed potatos.  Go check out the bulk bin at your local health food store for dried fruit, low sugar whole grain cereals, nuts, etc.  (I'm not a healthy organic kinda gal, but I can even do this.)

- Your bird needs time out each and every day.  I read somewhere a minimum of two hours a day.  I don't feel that's enough out of cage time.  This doesn't necessarily mean it needs to have your undivided attention at all times.  Guess what!  It's doable even if you work full time!  Here's my apprx. scheduled when I was working full time:

* 6 AM - let the birds out to play on their stands or on top of their cage and stretch.  One bird gets to be with me while I get ready for work (I'd rotate each bird throughout the week).
* 6:30 - Make and have breakfast (I'm big on eggs-do something healthy.).  Make enough for the birds to have some, but don't feed them yet.
* 7:00 - Everyone back in their cages with fresh food and water and whatever was for breakfast for the day.  They get used to going into their cages w/out fussing since it's yummy breakfast time.  I leave for work-they didn't even notice I was leaving since they're too busy pigging out.  If you're running late a handful of sugar free/low sugar cereal or uncooked oatmeal is quick and easy.  I usually didn't even have to physically put the birds away, they knew it was time and would go back in by themselves and wait for food.
* 5:30 PM - back home, let everyone out to play on their stands/cages and stretch.  One bird gets to be with me while I get out of work clothes. (Again I'd rotate them throughout the week).
* 6PM - Bird that's with me goes back to his cage or play stand.  All birds playing by themselves while I make dinner - of course with enough for them to have some.
* 7PM - Dinner.  Dinner of our people food to all the birds either on their play stands or in their cage (leaving the cage door open - it's their room, not prison.)
* After Dinner until bedtime - All birds still out.  Some are having cuddle time, some are just goofing around, causing trouble.
* Bedtime - All birds back in their cages.  Last check that there's clean water and some seed in their bowls in case they wake up earlier than I do and want to munch.

So you see, even working full time, my birds were out every day at least a full four hours.  I had an African Grey, two cockatoos, a conure and a couple of cockatiels at the time - not necessarily birds that are considered low maintenance.  My birds didn't pluck themselves, or scream excessively, or develop other neurotic behaviors.

I started keeping birds in my late teens and have kept them through going to school, working full time, getting married, having a baby, moving, etc.  It's doable.  They're resilient.

Bird Tip - Frugal Fun

I'm frugal, not cheap. . . Um, no.  I'm cheap. I rarely buy expensive bird toys anymore.  Recently I bought Ducky a $15 wood and rope bird toy I thought fer sure he would LOVE.  He doesn't love it or hate it.  He pretty much ignores it.  I don't know about you, but $15 down the drain annoys the snot outa me.

Your local 99 cent store is a treasure trove!  Hey!  For 99 cents, if Ducky doesn't play with something - WHATEVER!

What I picked up yesterday at the 99 cent store:

 

Great foot toy, or attached to something.

 

This was pretty cool.  Instead of a twist mechanism, it's a pull-down lever.

Ok - This is how frugal I am:  The box is going in my aviary for a finch nesting site.

 

These had little holes at the ends so they can be attached to something.

 

What became of the stuff:

 

The candy/toy vending machines are always best with variety.

There's seed, pellets, plastic beads, and other little toys in there.

The gumball machine's been hot gluegunned to a plastic container lid I had around.

All the other stuff's been left loose.

 

I'm not very craft or creative, but you can imagine the potential for decorating up this swing.

Bird Tip: Handfed does NOT = tame and handleable

Ok - I have to comment on this "handfed" issue.  I've handfed birds that I've intended to become future breeders.  Other than stuffing them with food, I don't play with them, I don't cuddle them, I don't do anything with them.  I let them grow up interacting with other birds and all they know is that they're birds.  Once weaned, these birds are completely unhandleable and not in the least bit tame despite the fact that I handfed them as babies.

Why am I bringing this to your attention?  Because a majority of my breeders have been acquired from people who thought they were getting a sweet, pet quality bird because they were told it was "handfed".  Not true!

When looking for a PET quality bird, keep the following in mind:

GOOD THINGS:
- The bird appears calm in general.
- The bird is calm while you're moving around checking it out.
- The bird may look at you curiously, or just seems unfazed by what's going on around it and may be exploring.
- The bird does not move away from you or otherwise appear nervous or shy when you slowly raise your hand towards it.
- The bird reaches out calmly/slowly with its beak to climb on your hand.
- You are able to easily handle the bird after a few minutes of both of you checking each other out.
- If in a cage, the bird does not go to the farthest point away from you.
- If in a cage, the bird is easily taken out of the cage (including by you).
- The bird does not appear to be afraid of towels.  Some time in its life the bird will probably get toweled by you, the vet, someone in an emergency or maybe for clipping toenails/wings.  Hopefully the bird's been introduced to towels in a positive manner so it's not traumatized when a towel's thrown over it for emergency or grooming.

DOUBLE PLUS GOOD (Don't disregard a bird that doesn't exhibit the following behaviors, especially if it's a very young baby):
- The bird moves towards you calmly in a friendly manner.
- The bird goes back and forth on its perch or the person selling it, body leaned forward towards you to try to get to you to meet you.
-  If in a cage, the bird comes out by itself to meet you.

UNGOOD THINGS:
- The bird bites you hard in a lunging, striking manner like a snake, and either won't let go or lets go immediately and tries to get away from you. (Well, I guess if you're masochistic and like to bleed, knock yourself out, this is the bird for you.)
- The bird lunges at you.
- The bird keeps trying to get away.
- The bird seems nervous about being handled.
- The bird seems scared/nervous of hands.  (I've seen a cage full of birds labeled as "handfed/handtame"; when I slowly raised my hand up towards them, they all run, some screaming, to the opposite end of the cage.)
- If in a cage, the bird needs to be chased around to get it out.

DOUBLE PLUS UNGOOD (caveat emptor):
- The bird bites the person who's selling the bird.
- The bird keeps trying to get away from the person who's selling the bird.
- The person selling the bird seems afraid or tentative about handling the bird.
-  If in a cage, the bird bites when anyone tries to get it out.
-  The person selling the bird puts on a glove or gets a towel in order to handle the bird.  (Ok to towel to clip toenails/wings)
- The person selling the bird excuses the bird's poor behavior and tells you, "Oh, it just needs to get to know you."  If this is going to be your first bird - Do you really want to lose blood, or do you want to be off to a good start with a nice bird?
- The person selling the bird excuses the bird's poor behavior and tells you, "It's a baby and just needs to be socialized."  **This one's a BIG crock of bull Shitake Mushrooms.  Whether you're buying a bird from a breeder or pet shop, a baby should be easily handled.  THE BREEDER OR PET SHOP SHOULD HAVE ALREADY BEEN SOCIALIZING THE BABY TO PREPARE IT TO BE A GREAT PET.

 

Sun Conures, Jenday Conures, most cockatoos should be easily handled like this.

The bird may not let you immediately handle it like this, but the person selling the bird should be able to.

 

At the very minimum the bird should sit calmly on your hand.

The bird should calmly go from hand to hand and not be nervous or biting.

Note - reaching down and chewing/nibbling your fingers is NOT biting.

I'll post later about what is and isn't a bite.