Bird Tip - Sprouting Revisited

For the truly HARD CORE seed junkie you can sprout spray millet:

 

Entire spray millet

 

Cover with water.  Soak about 8 hours or overnight.

Entire spray millet is a little tricky to get thoroughly soaked.  

Push the top ones to the bottom about 4 hours into the soaking session.

After soaking, pour through sieve and rinse thoroughly. Set sieve on top of sprouting container to drain.  Make sure the sieve holes are small enough so the millet seeds don't fall through. 

Rinse at least twice a day.  I leave this next to the kitchen sink so when I pass by 

I give it a rinse. Smell it after each rinse.  It should smell fresh and "earthy", never moldy.  Discard if moldy or smells yucky.

Sprouts are ready to serve when it grows "hair" (make sure it's not mold!).

Depending on the temperature, the sprouts will be ready in 24 - 36 hours. 

I don't know how long the sprouts will keep.  If I do spray millet, I just make enough for what gets consumed in 1 day. So if you want to feed over consecutive days, you'll need to have several going at a time made a day apart.

Bird Tip - The "S" Word!

SOCIALIZE, SOCIALIZE, SOCIALIZE!

Ducky and the latest batch of babies performing community service.

My daughter and I volunteer with a local cat shelter, Friends of Cats - FOC.

We take Ducky and any babies to events to socialize.

This picture was taken at a Farmer's Market.

Hopefully, you have gotten your bird from a source that's already socialized your new bird very well.  Regardless, you must socialize the bird or continue to give the bird new experiences.  A little fear is not a bad thing.  Don't be over protective; but keep in mind - don't terrify the bird.

I know you think you're doing what's best for your bird by removing him from the scary experience - "Oh, it scares Polly! Poor Polly! I don't want Polly to be scared!"

In the bird's mind it's, "Oh! That's scary! Oh! My owner says we need to hurry away from the scary thing; therefore, this scary thing must be dangerous!"

Lesson learned is next time the scary thing is encountered, the bird will react with more fear because you've taught it that the thing was dangerous.

On the other hand, if we do not remove them from the scary thing:
Human - "Oh, it scares Polly! Well, it's just a stuffed animal that's not harmful to Polly. No reason to remove Polly away from the toy." Human to bird - "It's ok Polly, it's just a toy." And we help the bird understand it's not a dangerous thing, and we expose the bird until it relaxes.
Bird - "Oh! That's scary! Hmm. . . But my owner doesn't seem scared. Hmm . . . my owner's being very calm about all of this. Hmm . . . my owner not afraid of this thing. Hmm. . . I think I'll touch it with my beak and see for myself. Oh! Hey! It's kinda squishy. I guess it's nothing to be afraid of!"

Lesson learned is next time I see this thing it's not scary and might be in need of further exploration.

I'm a strong believer that the animal takes cues from us as to how it should react to its environment and new things. I notice in both my horses and my birds, the more I help them overcome a scary experience, the more trusting the animal is of me. When I first got my grey arab, he really had a hard time listening to me - he was a very reactionary horse. I discovered that when I helped him overcome something scary, his behavior immediately changed afterwards and he was much more compliant when being ridden.

For birds, the amount of fear I like to see is when the bird stands really tall slightly leaning away from the object, looks concerned, may be moving its head around to see where it can flee to, wings may be flicking like it wants to get away; but there is no actual movement to get away from the object. Any actual movement away from the scary object is too scary.

It's about nuance and a "feel" for the animal. SOCIALIZE, BUT DON'T TERRIFY YOUR BIRD. 

Bird Tip - Sprouting

Sprouts are super nutritious and it's great for birds that refuse to eat anything but seed since it looks like seed to them.  It sounds complicated, but it's really not once you have it down.
I sprout with no special equipment.  I use ordinary household sieves and plastic storage containers.

For my larger birds-conures, african greys, eclectus, ringnecks:

 

Sunflower seeds, safflower seeds, green peas, barley.

Use any plastic food storage container.

Pick out all the broken pieces and "junk"

 Cover with water.  Soak about 8 hours or overnight.

 

After soaking, pour through sieve and rinse thoroughly. 

Set sieve on top of sprouting container to drain. 

Make sure the sieve holes are small enough so what you're sprouting doesn't fall through. 

 

Rinse at least twice a day.  

I leave this next to the kitchen sink so when I pass by I give it a rinse. Smell it after each rinse.  

It should smell fresh and "earthy", never moldy.  Discard if moldy or smells yucky.

 

Sprouts are ready to serve when there are small tails.

Depending on the temperature and what you're sprouting, the sprouts will be ready 

in 24 - 36 hours. Refrigerate unused portion in refrigerator.  

I don't know how long the sprouts will keep.  I feed out within three days.  Experiment with the amounts and make what you can feed out within three days.

For my small birds-finches, parakeets, cockatiels:

I use a parakeet/finch mix. Small yellow millet, white millet, red millet, 

canary grass seed, oats, flax, rape, niger, chinese millet. This generally is 

too small to pick out any broken pieces, but remove any obvious pieces of "junk".

Cover with water.  Soak about 8 hours or overnight.

After soaking, pour through sieve and rinse thoroughly. 

Set sieve on top of sprouting container to drain.

Make sure the sieve holes are small enough so what you're sprouting doesn't fall through.

Rinse at least twice a day.  

I leave this next to the kitchen sink so when I pass by I give it a rinse. Smell it after each rinse.  

It should smell fresh and "earthy", never moldy.  Discard if moldy or smells yucky.

Sprouts are ready to serve when there are small tails.

Depending on the temperature and what you're sprouting, the sprouts will be ready 

in 24 - 36 hours. Refrigerate unused portion in refrigerator.  

I don't know how long the sprouts will keep.  I feed out within three days.  Experiment with the 

amounts and make what you can feed out within three days.

Another great article listing other things you can sprout: Sprouting for Healthier Birds

Bird Tip - Sock Sweater for Feather Pickers

I used to have a seasonal feather picking cockatoo.  We didn't want the feather picking to become a permanent habit. I created a sock sweater for her.  What I did was take my hubby's old tube socks, wash well w/ bleach, cut sock the length of the 'toos neck to right above the vent, snip hole at the toe where her head goes, snip two slits on each side where her wings go. There's enough play in it to wrestle her head and wings into it. Originally I also cut leg slits into it, but it turned out unnecessary to put her legs through.

I'd replace the sweater as needed according to tattering and/or her chewing. If I were really feeling like a nut, I'd sew beads and little bits of ribbon onto it so she could chew and play with the decorations. Here's how:

 

Sock side view

 

Sock bottom view

 

The green marker indicates where the cuts go

 

After cuts are made

 

What it looks like after stuffing a bird into it.

Put it over the head first, then wings.  See below on a caution.

 

**IMPORTANT** When putting it on the bird, don't try to get the end of the wing into the wing holes first.  Grab the "elbow" (joint closest to the head) and pull the elbow through - the rest of the wing will follow.

It is normal for the parrot to flail around like it's being eaten by a boa constrictor and it's dying.  It's also normal for some parrots to chew the sweater off within a few minutes.  You need to put the sweater on when you can supervise all day long until the bird gets used to it.  It may take several days for the bird to get used to it and you may need to take the sweater off at night or when you cannot supervise so the bird doesn't strangle itself.   Do not leave the sweater on the bird unsupervised until you are sure the bird's used to it and doesn't seem like it's even wearing a sweater.

plucking picking mutilating feather mutilation self mutilation seasonal hormones

Cockatiels - Two Day Old Baby Being Handfed

If you think that's tiny, you should try a day old baby bourke parakeet!

Bird Tip - The Bird Bit Me! Or Did It?

Just because a bird laid its beak on you doesn't mean it bit you.  My family hates it when I say, "You're not bleeding, the bird didn't bite you."  But that's usually true.

If you understand how a bird uses its beak, respect what the bird's trying to tell you, and apply fair discipline, you will rarely be truly bitten.

Understand how a bird uses its beak:

• Getting Around - This is not a bite. Birds commonly grab a branch in their beak to test it for strength before stepping on it. They also use their beak to steady themselves as they climb from branch to branch. This can appear to be an attempt to bite and your instinctive reaction is to pull away.  DON’T PULL AWAY.  Branches don't pull away.  If you pull away, your bird will start biting you.  Sometimes the bird loses its balance and will grab you with its beak.  Sometimes this grabbing can be very hard, hurts a lot and you may even bleed.  If your bird hurts you because it grabbed you due to losing its balance you CANNOT discipline the bird.  He didn't mean it. 
• Beaking - The bird gently gnaws and tongues you fingers, hands and arms. This is a form of social interaction on the part of the bird and is normal. However, it can easily get out of control to where the bird starts feeling stabby and starts to really hurt you or try to take your fingernails off.  Discipline the bird if the pressure is too hard, gently wobble your hand and firmly tell your bird “no”.  The bird will learn what amount of pressure is acceptable.  ** Do not wobble so hard that the bird falls.  The correct amount of wobble is just enough to get the bird to stop biting, but not so hard that the bird is afraid.  Just enough to get its attention.
• Pinching - A good pinch administered with the tip of the beak. A parrot most often does this to get your attention,  warn you of approaching danger, or to let you know you’re doing something that’s annoying. Not serious, but definitely irritating and painful.  Discipline your bird with the gentle hand wobble and firmly tell him “no” to teach him that hurt you.  BUT YOU SHOULD ALSO TAKE NOTE OF WHAT YOU DID TO DESERVE THE PINCH AND MODIFY YOUR BEHAVIOR IN THE FUTURE.  This shows your bird you acknowledge the message he’s sending and you respect it.  ** Again ** Do not wobble so hard that the bird falls.  The correct amount of wobble is just enough to get the bird to stop biting, but not so hard that the bird is afraid.  Just enough to get its attention.
• Biting - You'll know it when you get one.  Generally it’s fast and striking like a snake.  Usually the bird’s displaying and warning you in some way like puffing up (aggressive), snaking its neck from side to side (aggressive), eyes are flashing or pinning (aggressive), or backing up with its beak open (fearful).  If you are not bleeding or missing chunks of flesh, it’s not a bite.  If you are observant of the prior three ways that a bird uses its beak and you behave appropriately - not pulling away when the bird’s getting around on you, disciplining hard beaking and pinching, respecting the bird’s feelings and messages when it pinches you - you will rarely get truly bitten by a tame bird.  

**DO NOT, NO MATTER HOW HARD IT IS, SCREAM, SAY "OUCH", OR OTHERWISE EXCLAIM WHEN A BIRD'S BEAK HURTS YOU.  If you do, you run the risk of turning yourself into an entertaining squeaky toy and the bird will bite you just to get you to yell. 

This biting info is not applicable to a bird that is not already tame and friendly.  I don't like taming birds and I'm no good at it, so I don't provide tips on avoiding bites when taming a bird.

Bird Tip - Shoulders are a Privilege

Q:  How did the pirate lose his eye?
A:  Polly poked it out!

Seriously, think about it - That beak cracks nuts like nothing.  Have you taken a good look at that hook on the end?  I've suffered temporary nerve damage in my hand from an eclectus bite.

On your shoulder a bird can easily take your earlobe off, scar your face, blind you, take chunks of nose or lip.  It doesn't even have to be intentional.  If the bird loses its balance, it may use its beak like a climbers pick and thwack it deep into your cheek or neck.  I've had this actually happen - it hurt . . . A LOT. . . I bled. . . A LOT. . .  I have the scar.

Shoulders also aren't very safe for your bird.  They can fall and break their leg, wing, keel bone.  A really bad fall onto the pavement can cause internal bleeding and death.  A clipped bird can fall like a brick.

I personally don't put any parrots on my shoulder unless it's a quiet moment like watching TV.  And the bird has to be well behaved and predictable.  Some birds are not not well behaved on the shoulder and will bite faces, necks and hands when you try to get them off.

Teach your bird that the shoulder is a privilege and not a right:

• 1st scurry to shoulder 1st discipline is blocking with hand, if bird reaches shoulder retrieving off shoulder and holding on hand.
• 2nd scurry 2nd discipline is blocking and if bird reaches shoulder then retrieving off shoulder and putting bird down somewhere it doesn't want to be like the floor, wait a minute and pick up the bird and see if it will stay off shoulder. LOTS OF PRAISE, SCRITCHES AND REWARDS FOR ANY AMOUNT OF TIME THE BIRD STAYS ON YOUR HAND.
• 3rd scurry 3rd discipline is blocking and if bird reaches shoulder then retrieve off shoulder and put in cage. 

You can repeat discipline 2 numerous times if the bird's making small improvements and you may not need to go to discipline 3.  

If it gets to the 3rd discipline, end interaction time for a significant amount of time like 1/2 hour or more, leave the room, etc.  The bird learns we're done if he can't behave.

Block before each escalation.  That's a warning to the bird that there's a consequence coming up and he gets a chance to decide to stay on the hand and avoid the consequence. 

If your bird allows it, you might also pin the toes along with the blocking when teaching it that you want it to stay on the hand.